When is the best time for repotting houseplants? What do I need to do to get it done? That’s a question we get around here when our Denver-area gardeners have hung up their rakes and trowels for the winter and turned their attention to their indoor greenery. Just as we amend the soil in our outdoor beds, we’ve got to make sure our container-grown plants have the right nutrients, aeration, moisture, and room to grow. That’s why we recommend replacing the soil and, as necessary, “stepping up” the pot size for most houseplant species every 12 to 18 months.

Early spring is the ideal time for repotting houseplants, but if you think they’re overdue, there’s no bad time to get the job done… unless you jump into it without making some essential preparations. Plan ahead, and follow these easy houseplant repotting steps to keep your plants healthy and happy.

1. Water your houseplant

Moving is stressful on everyone, plants included. Well-hydrated houseplants tolerate sudden environmental changes, from temperature swings to repotting and root ball division. Thoroughly water your houseplant 24 to 48 hours before the Big Day for the best outcome.

2. Choose (and prepare) the right pot for your houseplant

If you’re unsure whether your houseplant needs a larger pot, or if you only need to refresh the soil in its existing container, give yourself some size options. If you think your plant might be ready for division, have an extra pot or two. Don’t overwhelm your plant with too much space; stick with a 2″ maximum diameter and depth increase so the roots can grow, but remember that too much unused soil space can remain damp too long, encouraging root rot.

We recommend you select a pot with a drainage hole at the bottom. This reduces the likelihood of “wet feet” due to overwatering, lets oxygen access the soil, and allows you the option of bottom-watering your houseplant. Cover the hole with a bit of scrap window screen or a coffee filter to keep the soil in the pot while allowing air and water to flow through.

Are you moving your houseplant to a previously-used container? Time to clean house! Remove debris and mineral buildup with a soap-free scrubbing pad, and soak the pot for 24 hours in a weak (1:10) bleach solution. Rinse the pot well and let it air-dry in the sun to neutralize any remaining bleach.

3. Select the right potting soil for your plant species

Most indoor plants, including many succulents, thrive on high-quality all-purpose potting mixes. Select potting soil mixed with peat moss or Perlite—those white crumbly “pebbles”—to reduce soil compaction and facilitate drainage. Packaged potting soil should be moist, not dry and dusty, so if you’ve got an old, half-opened bag in your shed or garage, send it to your compost pile and start fresh.

If you’re unsure about the type of soil your plant species needs, ask your nursery expert to help you make your selection.

4. Get your tools and work area ready

You don’t need a deluxe potting bench if you’ve got space on your kitchen counter. Cover your work surface with a few sheets of newspaper, and set out an old roasting pan or shallow tub to catch any spilled material. Have a second container on hand in which to dispose of used soil.

These will also come in handy:

A butter knife
A small spoon (teaspoons work great)
A pair of sharp, clean micro-tip pruning shears
A dustpan and brush
A bottle of rubbing alcohol

5. Remove the plant from its pot

Run the butter knife between the soil and pot wall. Next, place your hand flat across the top of the pot with your fingers around the plant’s stem, and gently tip the pot over. A few gentle taps around the outside and bottom of the pot should dislodge the old soil and root ball.

6. Inspect and prune roots

Use your fingers to brush away the soil and loosen the root ball. Avoid damaging the thick taproots, but trim away up to a third of the thinner roots—especially those that are black and dead. Always wipe down your tools with rubbing alcohol before moving on to the next plant. Is it time to divide your plant? Gently separate the taproots and crown.

7. Let the repotting begin

Add about two inches of potting soil to the bottom of the pot with a little mound in the center. Arrange the plant roots so they’re evenly fanned out, using your spoon to fill in the spaces between layers of roots. Gently tamp down the soil as you go.

The plant’s crown should end up about a half-inch from the top of the pot once you’re done. Keep in mind that the soil will settle after the first watering, giving you a good inch of space between the pot rim and the soil surface.

8. Allow your houseplant to recover

Even if you do everything right, your houseplant will have experienced a bit of root shock. Place it in filtered sunlight and hold off on watering for a few days to a week. Then, replace it to its favorite spot and return to your regular maintenance routine.

9. Speaking of watering…

We recommend bottom-watering newly-repotted and established houseplants to stimulate healthy root growth. Place the container in a couple of inches of water for up to an hour. Sprinkle a little water on the top to reach the upper roots, but go lightly. Every fourth watering, generously water your houseplant from the top to help flush out accumulated minerals. It’s best to water early in the day, as sunlight triggers the plant’s moisture uptake and photosynthesis.

Need help? Come to us!

Country Fair Garden Center is the Rocky Mountain West’s resource for gardening supplies, locally-raised nursery plants, and seasoned advice tailored to Colorado’s unique climates. We’ve been here to help out local gardeners for more than 70 years, and we’re here for you. Call us or visit our Denver location anytime you (or your houseplants) need a little expert guidance to thrive!

How to Spot (and Fix!) Common Nutrient Deficiency in Plants

You’ve chosen plants that thrive in the Denver metropolitan area: Check. You’ve been careful to give them not too much—or too little—water. Check. You’ve worked just enough compost into the soil to allow for drainage, aeration, and a healthy ecosystem of microbes and fungi. Check. You’re reasonably certain your plants haven’t been exposed to herbicides. Check.

But your garden’s just not thriving, which means it’s time to find out if you have a nutrient deficiency in your plants.

Here’s what you need to know about nutrient deficiency in plants in your garden, and how to address them.

Understanding essential garden nutrients

Soil nutrients work with—or against—one another, depending on how well they’re in balance. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are your garden’s nutrient rock stars, represented in most commercial plant mixes in the percentages following the N-P-K order. Therefore a product labeled as 10-5-5 contains 10% nitrogen, 5% phosphorus, and 5% potassium. Those numbers might change depending on the product’s concentration; for example, a common balanced fertilizer is 20-20-20.

Micronutrients—calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, and others—are the “backup singers” in the band. Most packaged fertilizers contain these trace nutrients, and gardeners can purchase “standalone” organic and chemical amendments to fill in the gaps.

Nitrogen (N)

“I just need more fertilizer!” is the first assumption gardeners make when they notice stunted or discolored annuals, perennials, shrubs, or trees. They rush to their nearest garden center and stock up on steer manure, or raid their neighbor’s chicken coops for litter. But too much of a good thing is really, really bad for plants, even when that “good thing” is the most important nutrient for the garden.

Not enough nitrogen: Mature leaves at the bottom of the plant turn yellow-green, eventually becoming dry and crumbly. Upper leaves turn pale. Stunted growth.
Too much nitrogen: Shedding of healthy leaves, browned leaf edges, lower leaves yellowed and/or wilted.
Good sources of nitrogen: Aged, thoroughly-composted manure, decaying matter from legume cover crops.

Phosphorus (P)

Phosphorus deficiencies usually occur in young plants before their roots have become sufficiently established to absorb nutrients, especially when cool Colorado spring temperatures haven’t triggered soil biome activity.

Not enough phosphorus: Purple blotches on leaves, purple leaf veins, limited root growth.
Too much phosphorus: The danger in overdosing your plants with phosphorus is hindering the absorption of important minerals. Look for symptoms found in iron and manganese deficiencies.
Good sources of phosphorus: Bone meal, rock phosphate, bat guano, alfalfa meal.

Potassium (K)

Potassium triggers enzymes that create the building blocks for starch and protein production and the adenosine triphosphate (ATP), which is essential to photosynthesis. Potassium also helps regulate turgidity, the flow of water through the plant’s structure, and the water pressure within individual cells.

Not enough potassium: Weak stems. Leaf edges will yellow, curl under, and become dry and brittle. Veins typically remain green. As with a (P) deficiency, purple discoloration may occur. Plants tend to wilt and wither in between routine waterings, as potassium helps protect plants against drought.
Too much potassium: While surplus potassium itself won’t harm plants, an overabundance will negatively affect how the plant can absorb and use other essential nutrients. Look for symptoms associated with other nutrient deficiencies.
Good sources of potassium: Kelp meal, hardwood ash, glauconite greensand

Iron (Fe)

Plants small amounts of iron to build the cells required for photosynthesis. Iron’s what makes Colorado’s soil red, but that doesn’t mean your garden plants are getting the right amount of this micronutrient. Think, “iron, iron, everywhere, but not enough to uptake”. That’s because high soil pH—in other words, too much alkalinity—will prevent your plants from accessing its important mineral.

Not enough iron: Poor fruit set, pale yellow, or even white leaves.
Too much iron: Iron toxicity resembles nitrogen “burning” and other nutrient imbalances: Scorched and spotted leaves are most common.
How to regulate iron: Lower your soil’s pH by adding sulfur or aluminum sulfate. If your water has high salt content, consider using rainwater, or water sources not connected to your water softening system. You rarely need to add iron, especially if you’re gardening in the Denver area. Plants are equipped with chelate reductase, an enzyme that makes the most of the existing iron in the soil.

Calcium (Ca)

Calcium’s primary function is creating strong cell walls.

Not enough calcium: New growth exhibiting symptoms of calcium deficiencies can mimic those associated with herbicide residue poisoning: Stunted, curled leaves.
Too much calcium: Calcium is alkaline, and calcium toxicity presents as a pH imbalance. It’s the leading cause of blossom end rot in vegetable plants.
How to fix it: Amend your soil with lime or crushed, dried eggshells.

Manganese (Mn)

Manganese is essential to root cell formation, photosynthesis, respiration, and reproduction. Plants with manganese imbalances show symptoms that are nearly identical to those associated with too much (or too little) iron.

How to fix it: Manganese quickly leaches from loose, sandy soil. Manganese sulfate or chelated manganese is best applied as a foliar spray. If you have too much manganese, reduce your soil’s acidity by adding lime and improving drainage.

Magnesium (Mg)

Magnesium is important for producing chlorophyll, and it helps plants absorb potassium.

Not enough magnesium: This might sound familiar: Yellowing or reddish blotches in between green veins. (Actually, magnesium deficiency can be quite pretty… until the plant fails to flower or set fruit.)
Too much magnesium: Resembles calcium deficiencies, and can cause salt buildup in soils.
How to fix it: Boost magnesium with foliar applications of diluted Epsom salts on mild days every few weeks can boost magnesium. Ease back on potassium additives, and add organic material to sandy soils. If you think you have magnesium toxicity in your garden, check for poor drainage.

Best practices for maintaining balanced soil nutrients

Prevention’s the best medicine for nutrient deficiency in plants. Plan to prep your garden well in advance of your actual planting dates so your plants have what they need to get established and have a healthy start.

Get a soil test. Because so many deficiency symptoms look alike, even seasoned gardeners need help making a diagnosis. Do-it-yourself kits can help get you on the right track, but did you know you can get comprehensive soil reports from your local agriculture extension? Denver’s Country Fair Garden Center offers soil collection kits from CSU extension complete with easy, detailed instructions so you can have accurate readings for mineral content, pH, and composition.

Plant species with similar nutrient, pH, sunlight, and irrigation needs. Some plants are notoriously heavy feeders, requiring a lot of nitrogen. Plants at different stages of growth and establishment need more of this, less of that.

Add organic content. Work two inches of well-aged compost into compacted soil to create a healthy ecosystem for the fungi, bacteria, beneficial organisms that help your plants access the nutrients they need. Compost also helps retain moisture and improve drainage, and as it breaks down, it adds nutrients to the soil at a rate that won’t cause sudden fluctuations in your soil chemistry.

Heavy, clay soils benefit from compost, but you may want to add garden sand to prevent water from pooling up and rotting roots. Poorly-drained soil accumulates salts and can throw other minerals off balance. Conversely, sandy soils leach out important nutrients and quickly dry plant roots. Organic material slows the flow.

Mulch your beds. Mulch helps create consistent soil temperatures and moisture, and can even reduce pest problems. Heat and drought stress inhibit nutrient uptake, and as we’ve discussed, can mimic symptoms of nutrient deficiencies. As organic mulches break down, they release nutrients to the soil.

Local gardening pros have the dirt on Colorado’s soil nutrients!

If you’re gardening in the Denver area, get advice from experts who know how to succeed in Colorado’s climate and native soils, as well as how to spot nutrient deficiency in plants. Contact us at Country Fair Garden Center for a soil test kit, and once you get the results, come back for recommendations on soil amendments that will put your garden in balance!

When summer gives way to fall and the aspens start thinking about a wardrobe change, Colorado gardeners are nowhere near ready to hang up their tools. Sure, there are plenty of end-of-season chores to keep us busy, but it’s also a good time to get many ornamental and edible varieties in the ground and from a local Denver nursery. So what can you plant in the fall in the Denver metropolitan area? Let’s take a look:

Spring-flowering bulbs

Some of the earliest flowers to bloom in spring are bulb plants, and here in the Denver area, early September to mid-October is bulb-planting time. That’s because everything they need to get a head start, they stored up in a tidy little package during the previous growing season. Bulbs are the plant’s equivalent of dehydrated backpacking dinners: Just add a little heat and water, in the spring and they’re good to go.

This is a bonus for new gardeners or those who haven’t had the time to perfect their bedding soil. As long as bulb beds drain reasonably well and are situated where they get full sun, these plants are foolproof and perfect for the novice.

“Be sure to choose fresh, firm, plump bulbs!” says Bethany, an avid Arvada gardener. “You never know how long big-box stores or online retailers have kept theirs in a warehouse.”

Bulb plants come in all shapes, sizes, colors, and bloom rates. You can go for a riot of colors using Dutch hybrid varieties, or a more understated (but no less spectacular) native Colorado theme with snowdrops, daffodils, crocus, and iris.

Deciduous trees and shrubs

While evergreens prefer to put down their roots in spring, September and early October are ideal for planting dormant deciduous trees—and you’ve got plenty of options suitable for our Rocky Mountain Front climate. In fact, several years ago the region’s top horticulturists, landscapers, nurseries, and urban foresters got together to brainstorm the best candidates for Colorado’s soil and climate and created the Front Range Tree Recommendation List.

But even that can be a bit overwhelming, which is why we encourage homeowners to consult with our gardening pros at a local Denver nursery. We can help you fine-tune your selections according to your location, personal aesthetic, and property layout. Other things you might consider:

Tree size: Choose trees that won’t interfere with overhead or underground utilities, block too much sunlight, or encroach upon your neighbors’ or public space.
Aesthetics: Trees and shrubs anchor your landscaping. Bark colors and textures, canopy shape, and shade density influence the annuals and perennials you’ll select to complete your design.
Growth rate: If you’re looking for a natural privacy fence, choose shrubs and trees that rapidly grow and close the gaps between specimens. Some trees that grow quickly may not be as resilient in windstorms.
Water consumption: All young trees require frequent watering to get established, but as they mature, your landscape irrigation scheme, designed to maintain lawns and lush annual beds might “overdose” them with moisture.
Maintenance (and messiness): How difficult are leaves, seedpods, and fruits to clean up? How often does the specimen require pruning?
Habitat value: Some trees and shrubs provide food and cover for birds, deer, pollinators, and small mammals. For some Denver homeowners, these are positives; for others, well, see above.

One thing most young deciduous trees and shrubs have in common: They’re surprisingly easy to transplant and establish, even for beginners. And the right landscaping trees and shrubs increase property values, decrease energy costs, and create soft, pleasing spaces out of otherwise angular lots.

Cool-season vegetables in cold frames

The best time to plant cool-season vegetables outdoors for fall in Colorado is late July through early August, but if you missed your window… well, build a new one!

Set up a cold frame in a south-facing section of your garden—particularly one that’s protected on its north side by a structure or wall— and grow low-profile, cold-hardy produce such as lettuce, bok choy, kale, spinach, and cauliflower—just for starters. You’ll have fresh veggies throughout winter, and the perfect place to give spring seedlings a head start!

“DIY plans are easy to find,” said Rob, who maximizes his Wheat Ridge duplex growing space with cold frames, raised beds, and patio containers. “Look for old windows on Craigslist, but avoid glass if you have rowdy kids or pets. Corrugated plastic works great.”

Microgreens

If you don’t have a cold frame, you can still grow crunchy, flavorful, nutritious “baby” greens outside up to two weeks before our first fall frost. You can even grow them indoors year-round with little hassle.

Microgreens is a broad term applied to vegetables sprouted in fine soil for the purpose of harvesting before maturity. Any type of flat, draining container, filled two inches deep with sterile seedling mix works great for indoor microgreens, or you can plant them in newly-harvested raised beds.

Here are just a few favorites:

Mustard
Cress
Radish
Turnip
Mizuma

Keep an eye out for microgreen mixes, and experiment to find your ideal balance of sweet and spicy!

Windowsill herb garden

If you’ve got a sunny window, create an indoor kitchen herb garden. Tender herbs are the most beginner-friendly, but they’re also the most popular culinary seasonings. These herbs are easy to grow indoors and will inspire you to create more flavorful meals at home.

Chives
Basil
Parsley
Cilantro
Oregano
Mint
Catnip

If you need a little extra light or you don’t want to clutter up your kitchen window view, you’ve got affordable and space-saving options, thanks to LED technology.

Grasses

Do you need to re-seed a tired lawn, or start a new one? Grasses establish roots within a couple of weeks, and fall’s a good time to get them going: Cooler temperatures and more frequent rainfall is exactly what they need to get established. Choose cool-season grasses for fall-seeded lawns; we recommend Kentucky Bluegrass or a fescue/Bluegrass mix.

Golden gardener and dog lover Amy has good advice for preparing pet-damaged lawns: “Dog urine is alkaline. Thoroughly water the patches and surrounding area, do a home pH test, cultivate the soil with an acidifying amendment, and plant fresh lawn seed. And train your pet to use an out-of-the-way corner of your garden.”

Clumping ornamental grasses are best established in spring, but you can transplant nursery starts in September, so they get a chance to dig in their roots by our October 15 frost date. Give them extra protection with mulch.

We’re your year-round gardening mentors

Whether you’re transplanting perennials, trees, shrubs, or bulbs in the fall, be sure they’re healthy and undamaged from shipping. Your best bet is purchasing starts and saplings raised in your own climate. Country Fair Garden Center sources its stock from a local Denver nursery, ensuring you’ll have the best chance at success. Need a little coaching? Our gardening pros are happy to answer your questions and offer advice whenever you need it!

When (and how) do Denver-area gardeners get prepared for winter? The first fall frost usually arrives here in the first half of October, giving high-country Coloradans plenty of time to tidy up their gardens and put them to bed until spring. Grab your calendar—here are the most important items on your fall gardening to-do list!

1. Remove fallen plant debris

Annual plants die off at the end of the growing season, and many perennials drop their leaves or turn brown as they go dormant for the winter. Allow bulb Clean up any mushy debris—including decaying fruits and vegetables—that can cause root rot, attract pests, or detract from your landscape’s aesthetic.

Destroy hand-pulled weeds and diseased leaves and stems—never add them to your compost pile.

2. Add soil amendments

If you add soil amendments to your garden in late summer or fall, your soil ecosystem will be primed and stabilized for early spring planting. Fall soil conditioning also raises the accuracy of spring soil tests, after which you can make fine adjustments if needed.

Need help testing your soil for proper pH and nutrients? Country Fair Garden Center sells home testing kits, or you can pick up a soil sample kit at our Denver store. Follow the easy instructions, bring your soil samples to us, and we’ll forward them to Colorado State University’s soil testing lab for the most accurate results. Then let us help you select the products you need to balance your soil!

3. Divide early-blooming perennials

Mature perennials get “crowdy” after a few years, requiring them to be separated the root ball. Early fall is the ideal time to divide spring and early-summer bloomers, most notably iris, lily, hostas, bleeding hearts, and other bulb or tuberous species. Colorado State’s Plant Talk blog has excellent advice for dividing spring-blooming perennials grown in our region.

4. Protect container-grown patio plants

Potted perennials are less insulated than plants grown directly in the ground. Move your dormant container plants into a shed or garage where they’re less likely to experience extreme temperature fluctuations. Some herbs do well in a sunny room or windowsill, allowing you to enjoy fresh flavoring through the winter!

5. Prune or cut back plants

Find out which of your shrubs, trees, and herbaceous perennials require sprucing up in the fall. A bit of pruning here and there will encourage vibrant regrowth in the spring, reduce damage from winter breakage, discourage pests and disease, and increase airflow among branches. Remove any spent flowers or developing seed pods if you want to avoid self-seeded “volunteers” in the spring.

Keep your pruners sharp, and wipe them down with alcohol before you move on to the next plant or tree.
Wait for plants, trees, and shrubs to go dormant before pruning.
Remove spent stalks and flowers from late-season bulb plants as they lose vigor, but hold off on removing the leaves until they lose their green or begin to wilt.
Many herbaceous perennials grow back fuller and produce more flowers if they’ve been cut to the ground the previous fall.

6. Mulch to protect your soil and insulate more sensitive plants

Good news! You’ve got a use for all those fall leaves! Cover your empty garden beds with a layer of leaves or packaged mulch to reduce soil compaction and erosion. In the spring, you can rake up and compost whatever mulch hasn’t decayed, or just move it to the side to make room for new transplants.

Some perennials do best with an insulating layer of mulch around their bases or over their crowns, but no matter the season, we recommend leaving at least an inch between exposed plant stems and your chosen mulch to prevent fungal diseases.

Important tip: If you decide to mulch with seed-free grass clippings, wood shavings, straw, shredded leaves, or compost, be sure you only source herbicide-free materials. Residual chemicals from weed control products can damage your garden plants. Getting manure from a local friend or your chicken coop? Herbicides used to treat hay and straw can survive both the digestive process and the composting cycle. It’s a good idea to use packaged manure, mulch, and potting soil from your nursery.

7. Winterize your irrigation system

Nobody wants to celebrate spring by digging out burst sprinkler lines! Use an air compressor and appropriate fittings to “blow out” shallow irrigation systems before the first hard freeze, and drain flexible micro-irrigation tubing. Consider removing and cleaning drip, mist, and bubbler emitters to avoid damage and dirt infiltration. You’ll want to flush out the lines before popping those emitters back in in the spring.

8. Prepare for late winter tree care

Many ornamental and fruit-bearing trees require pruning in late winter dormancy when they’re less vulnerable to insect damage and disease. Autumn is an ideal time to select branches for removal. If you’re new to tree care, you’ll have time to consult with your gardening pro or arborist. That way, you’ll have greater confidence and motivation when it’s time to haul out those loppers!

9. Plan next year’s garden

Now that you’ve prepped your landscaping and vegetable beds for winter, take some time to think about what Colorado-friendly plants and projects you might want to tackle next year. Winter’s a great time to research new plant species, scroll through Instagram and Pinterest for creative gardening ideas (especially for small backyards!), and shop for garden accessories that make routine landscaping maintenance fun and easy.

Gardening is easy when you’ve got experts on your side!

We hate to use the term “chores” when we talk about seasonal gardening projects. That’s because, like our loyal customers, we love playing in the dirt and watching our plants thrive as a result of easy, routine maintenance tasks. Don’t worry about taking on each of these essential projects in a single weekend—there’s plenty of time between now and just after Denver’s first hard frost to get things done.

And if you need help any step of the way, contact us or come into our Denver store. We’ll help you along the path to success with your Rocky Mountain garden!

“Is it too late to start a garden here in the Denver area?” Once July rolls around, our staff hears this question every day, without fail. Our answer? Absolutely not! That’s good news for locals who’ve spent their summers preparing their yards for new landscaping features, or those who’ve put off yard work in favor of enjoying the beauty of Rocky Mountain backcountry.

You’ve got plenty of time to bring a little Colorado wilderness home with stunning native plant species, and there are plenty of classics popular in gardens around the world. This is the time to establish perennial plants and shrubs for years of enjoyment.

Perennials Vs Annuals… What’s The Difference?

If you’re new to gardening, you’re not alone in wondering what these terms mean. Perennial and annual refer to a plant species’ lifecycle and maturity rate, indicating when you can expect blooms and—for edible plants—fruits and vegetables.

Annuals Complete Their Entire Life Cycle In A Single Season

Annual plants grow anew from seed each year. They’re usually quick to mature, and they completely die back at the end of the growing season. These plants tend to produce spectacular flowers since they have to drop enough seeds to support future generations. Most garden veggies are annuals.

Perennials Regrow Each Year From The Same Root System

Perennials often last years, and they’re generally hardier than biennial and annuals. Their foliage usually drops or dies back each fall here in Colorado, but their roots remain dormant through winter. In early spring, established perennials are often the first to green up the garden and add colorful blooms to your landscape.

When Is A Perennial Not A Perennial?

Some plant species are technically classified as perennials, but only grow year-around in warmer climates. Here in Colorado, they’re grown as annuals and replaced each spring, since their roots can’t survive our cold winters. There are workarounds, though! Some spectacular varieties are suitable for container growing, and you can bring them indoors before the first hard frost. You can dig up and store bulbs and tubers for spring replanting, or try your luck covering your garden beds with a thick, insulating layer of mulch.

Which Perennials Are Easy To Grow Here In The Denver Area?

Not all perennials do well in our region, but the Denver metropolitan area has a surprisingly agreeable climate. According to the revised USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, local gardeners can expect success with perennial species suited for zones 6a and 5b. If you’re unsure, our knowledgeable staff can give you specific recommendations for your particular area, whether you’re in Arvada, Golden, Parker, Wheatridge, Centennial, Lowry, or somewhere in between. If you’re on the adventurous side, ask us how to make your garden more hospitable for more finicky warmer climate varieties!

Want a low-water, low-maintenance garden? Some of your best options are perennials native to the Colorado Rockies, especially suited to our local soils and weather.

We offer a wide selection of nursery starts, but many of our customers enjoy starting their perennials from seed. Either way, you’ll transplant your young plants into large containers or prepared beds.

Get A Head Start With Young Nursery-grown Perennials

Most perennial plant species are tricky to grow from seed, so we recommend novice gardeners purchase healthy nursery starts for the best chance at success. Here in Colorado, early spring or late summer are ideal seasons for transplanting perennial “starts”. The plants are channeling their energy into growth, rather than flower production, and they’re less likely to experience heat stress—a problem for plants that haven’t established strong root systems.

Most Perennials Are Low-maintenance Plants

Once established, perennials suited for the Denver area require little to no coddling, and they’re forgiving of rookie mistakes and a bit of neglect. Woodier perennials such as lavender and rosemary need pruning after their first year, and most species require dividing after three or four growing seasons. Neither task takes much time, and in the case of the latter, you get new plants with which to expand your garden!

Perennials do enjoy a balanced fertilizer once or twice a year, and as with most plants, they appreciate a layer of mulch to keep weeds at bay and to stabilize soil temperature and moisture.

We strongly recommend hand-watering newly-planted perennials each morning for a month to six weeks to get them established. Once they’re on their way, you might consider installing micro (or “drip”) irrigation. Just be sure to select emitters according to soil type and species to make sure the water seeps deeply enough to encourage healthy root growth.

What Are The Best Perennials For The Denver Area?

Honestly? There are too many perennials compatible with our climate to list here, ranging from low-growing ground covers to flowering shrubs. We’re fortunate that plants native to the Rockies are among the most spectacular species grown in North America, and that our local climate is hospitable to a wider selection than are most mountain regions.

Here are just a few of our favorite picks:

Columbines: An exotic-looking native perennial that’s tougher than it looks.
Penstemon: This large, bushy North American native bears colorful flowers on tall spikes. There are many varieties compatible with the Denver area, and they’re popular with pollinators.
Russian sage: More delicate-looking than traditional sage, this species is tougher than it looks.
Sedum (stonecrop): These succulent flowering ground covers need little water, and look fantastic in rock gardens or between pavers. There are a seemingly endless number of species that do well here in Colorado.
Echinacea: Also known as coneflowers, echinacea grow quickly to serve as colorful background plants. You’ll recognize their dome-shaped centers and drooping purple or magenta petals.
Coral bells: Dainty pink blooms on tall spikes brighten shady areas under trees or along north-facing walls

Did we say “just a few”? Don’t let anybody tell you your options are limited if you want to garden in (or near) the Mile High city.

Gardening Is A Year-around Hobby, Even In Colorado!

Perennials aren’t your only late-season gardening options! Come into our store, call or send us an e-mail and we can help you select cool-season vegetable varieties and ornamental annuals from our nursery. At the very least, we can help you get ready for next Spring’s growing season with tips on soil amendments, garden tools, and accessories, and landscaping ideas using plants ideal for the Denver metropolitan area!

Rocky Mountain gardeners know that different rules apply when you’re gardening a mile high. There are plenty of magazines, nursery catalogs, and gardening blogs out there created for the average “lowlander”, but up here, success depends on learning from local gardening experts and creating gardens and landscapes with Colorado-hardy species. Here’s how shopping at a local Denver-area nursery and garden center will give you the advantage:

1. You’ll find varieties that thrive in your specific climate

It’s not enough to look for words like “early” or “Arctic” when you’re shopping for Denver-friendly garden plant varieties. Whether you’re looking for native species or specialized cultivars, locally-owned and operated garden centers stock hard-to-find plants they know will do well in the area, from lawn mixes to lavenders.

Want to push your luck with a long-season variety? Start seeds indoors before the last frost date (follow the seed packet instructions) or, better yet, purchase “starts”: Young plants grown in a greenhouse to give gardeners a leg up on the season.

2. You’ll take home healthy plants acclimatized to seasonal conditions

Transportation stress is one reason plants fail to thrive; temperature shock is another. We source our nursery stock from local partners, and plant starts and potted specimens are typically “hardened off” (gradually acclimated to current temperatures) by the time you “meet” them.

Healthy, stress-free young plants are far more likely to survive the transition from nursery pot to garden bed, and they’ll exhibit faster growth.

Tip: Look for well-hydrated plants with uniform, rich colors. Pass over individual plants that look like they’ve flown the redeye from South America in the seat in front of a hyperactive toddler. Well-adjusted plants don’t drop leaves or buds and don’t droop.

3. You can pick up amendments and supplies developed for Colorado gardens

Every region’s soil has its own personality. You’ll want to perform a soil test in your own garden beds, and we carry kits for Colorado’s Soil Testing Lab so you can balance your soil’s nutrients using the right organic or formulated products. Read labels, compare products, and stay true to your pledge to stay organic… or not. It’s up to you.

Our local soils tend to be on the “heavy” (claylike) side. Adding up to 30% organic matter with a mix of compost, worm castings, and shredded coconut coir”fluff up” compacted, clayish soil, allowing oxygen and water to reach plant roots. Be sure to re-test your soils after adding amendments; we recommend beefing up your soil in the fall and testing in the spring when you’re building new beds.

4. You’ll get support from experts who know how to grow in the Denver area

Gardening is all we do, and Denver isn’t just our area of expertise—it’s our home turf. We’re always exchanging ideas, inspiration, and experience with our fellow gardeners and customers, and we’ve accumulated a lot of experience over the years. You won’t hear any of our staff answer your questions with, “sorry, I’m from the ceiling fan department”, but you will find great advice on setting up drip irrigation.

Here are just a few location-specific questions we’ve fielded this month alone. Imagine how we’ve coached our customers since 1954!

“Which daisies grow best in Centennial?
“Can I actually grow wheatgrass in Wheat Ridge?”
“Can I really use beer to trap slugs?” (From a Coors employee in Golden)
“What xeriscaping plants do you recommend for Lowry?”
“Do you have a wildflower mix native to Douglas County?”

Our gardening pros are experienced in troubleshooting Denver-area gardening challenges and helping you avoid them from the start. We’re always ready to help you out in the store or over the phone, but we encourage you to use our contact form, especially in our busiest months.

Did you know? Microclimates don’t just exist between towns and neighborhoods. You probably have several on your own property! Soil near a dense wall will stay warmer longer due to thermal mass—stored heat from the sun. Plants exposed to prevailing breezes will dry out faster than those only feet away, and low areas in your garden collect cooler air. Consider these factors, as well as sun exposure, when you’re mapping out your garden and selecting species. While you’re at it, consider irrigation strategies. Low-pressure “drip” systems are affordable, easy-to-install, and they save water! (That’s a big deal here in Colorado.)

5. We’re your neighbors

We’ve grown for—and with—the Denver and Arvada communities for more than 70 years, and we’re still a family-owned business. Some might say we’re the heart of the local gardening community, but our customers are what makes us great. Your feedback and suggestions help us select the plants and products that ensure you get the best possible outcome in our climate, and your support inspires us to give back.

Get to know us! Meet our team and learn about our history and outreach programs here!

6. The visit is the best part of the experience

Scrolling online or thumbing through an old-school print catalog for the season’s new garden additions is a favorite pastime of any green thumb, but spending an hour (or, hey, all day) perusing ornamental and edible plants, shrubs, vines, and trees is 100% better.

Get to know our staff, meet your neighbors, and find out firsthand if you really like the shape, size, color, and smell of that future window-box inhabitant you read about last winter. Dive into our greenhouse on a rainy day, or duck into the garden shop to flip through books written specifically for Colorado gardeners. Choose your own plants; don’t risk ending up with a squashed and travel-weary specimen shipped from across the country.

Tip: If you get the itch to visit us past business hours, our gardening blog is the next best thing. You can also follow us on Facebook for our latest news and offers!

Come check us out!

For more than 70 years, Country Fair Garden Center has been the place for new and seasoned green thumbs to pick up supplies, plants, shrubs, trees, and helpful advice. Stop by our Denver location to browse our gifts, nursery, greenhouse, and garden shop!